Is
it a Gale, a Nor'Easter or a Hurricane?
Measuring
a Hurricane
Source:
National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration
Category 1: Minimal Damage
Winds of 74-95 mph and storm surges of 4-5 ft. No significant
wind damage to well constructed buildings. Some damage
is done to poorly constructed signs. Wind damage primarily
occurs to mobile homes, shrubbery, trees, and foliage.
Low lying roads are inundated by storm surge. Minor pier
damage occurs. Example: Danny, 1997
Category 2: Moderate Damage
Winds of 96-110 mph and storm surges of 6-8 ft. Some roofing
material, doors, windows of homes and businesses are damaged
by winds. Considerable wind damage done to mobile homes
and vegetation. Low lying roads are inundated by storm
surge. Considerable damage done by storm surge and wave
action to piers. Small craft in unprotected anchorages
break their moorings. Example: Flossy, 1956
Category 3: Extensive Damage
Winds of 111-130 mph and storm surges of 9-12 ft. Winds
cause structural damage to homes and utility buildings
with a minor amount of curtainwall failure. Mobile homes
are destroyed. Storm surge flooding destroys many smaller
buildings while large buildings are damaged by floating
debris. Terrain continuously lower than 10 feet above mean
sea level is flooded. Example: Andrew, 1992
Category 4: Extreme Damage
Winds of 131-155 mph and storm surges of 13-18 ft. More
extensive curtainwall failures with some complete roof
failure on homes. Major damage to lower floors of homes
and businesses from storm surge flooding. Terrain continuously
lower than 15 feet above mean sea level is flooded. Example:
Audrey, 1957
Category 5: Catastrophic Damage
Winds greater than 155 mph and storm surges greater than
18 ft. Compete roof failure of many homes and businesses.
Complete structural failure of many small buildings. Major
storm surge flooding to areas lower than 20 feet above
mean sea level. Example: Camille, 1969
10 Things You Can Do
Now To Prepare For Hurricane Season
By
Denise O'Berry
The 2008 hurricane season is right around the corner and runs
for six months from June 1, 2008 to November 30, 2008. According
to a recent survey from the National Hurricane Survival Initiative,
the residents in hurricane prone states -- from Maine to
Texas -- aren't anywhere near prepared for what they might
face. Here are 10 quick tips to help you prepare.
1.
During the off season is the time to stock up on supplies -- batteries, water
and non-perishable food. If you wait until a hurricane is approaching, your
chances of finding the items you need are not ideal.
2.
Buy a small plastic carrying case for your important papers. Keep it filled
and updated during hurricane season so all you have to do is grab and go if
you have to evacuate.
3. Save that ice. At the beginning of hurricane season start
using that ice that builds up in your icemaker. Fill up several
plastic bags with ice and store them in your freezer.
4. Have at least two coolers. One for drinks and one for food.
You might also want to have a third cooler on hand for the
stuff
you will use most often. That way you aren't opening all the
coolers frequently and letting the ice melt.
5.
It gets really dark when there's no electricity. Battery and solar operated
light products are much better than candles. Make sure you have at least one
per person.
6.
Your cordless phone won't work without electricity. Make sure you can communicate
with loved ones. Have a phone with a regular cord. They're very inexpensive
and can be your communication lifeline in an emergency.
7.
Pets are family too. Make sure you have a pet carrier or transportation device
for each pet in your home along with a plan for your pets should a disaster
occur.
8.
Cash is a must. ATM machines don't work when the electricity is out and the
likelihood of your corner store offering to cash a check is slim. Sock away
some bucks in that plastic carrying case (see tip #2) so you'll never be caught
short-handed.
9.
When preparing your home, don't forget to look up. Check those trees and tree
limbs. Trim those that could damage your house.
10.
Your garage door is a vulnerable wind entry point during a hurricane. Make
sure you have it reinforced to prevent collapse.
About the author:
Denise O'Berry is a small business consultant in Tampa, Florida.
For more hurricane information, tips and tools, visit
http://www.myhurricanecenter.com

Hurricane
and Storm Preparation (excerpted from Harwich Harbor Management Plan)
For
more information check out the excellent web site of the
Harwich
Harbormaster.
Cape
Cod has been spared the direct hit of a hurricane since 1958.
The '44 hurricane trashed the Cape and virtually destroyed
the Harwich Port Boat Works at Wychmere Harbor. Hurricane "Bob" (1991)
brought severe winds and high tides to Harwichport causing moorings
to pull and boats to break free. Allen Harbor was devastated
including yacht club floats. Wychmere Harbor found 19 boats left
high and dry on the hillside below Larson Park (north side).
Many boats, including eight Flying Scots were capsized at their
moorings. Hurricane season usually lasts from late August through
October. Therefore, hurricane preparation is not a joke.
The
Hurricane Yardstick
High tide during a hurricane at Harwichport can rise 4-6 feet
above the normal high tide caused by lowered atmospheric pressure.
Wind-caused surge can form an addition and unpredicted wedge
of water on top of this tide. Boats moored in high-energy areas
such as the outer harbor will lose the protection of the breakwater
which will be deeply submerged at high tide. These boats must
be moved to safer harbor before the storm hits. Mooring scope
at this time may become too short and cause anchors to pull.
Boat ramps will be jammed at the time close to the storm. Therefore,
if you have reached the end of your useful boating season, consider
an early haul out.
THINGS YOU SHOULD DO- SHORT OF HAULING OUT
MOORED BOATS:
1. Inspect your mooring tackle and renew all parts that show
signs of serious wear. This should include quality of chain,
splices, and condition of thimbles and shackles.
2. All moorings during these months should be equipped with
secondary storm painter (mooring line) to attach to the opposite
bow cleat.
3. Equip all mooring lines passing through bow chocks with chafing
equipment which can include a short piece of rubber hose or vinyl
tubing protecting the lines from wearing through. Wear and tear
of mooring pennants at deck level has been the most common reason
in Harwich for mooring failure.
4. Inspect the security of bow cleats and eyes. Sailing vessels
extend mooring lines back to the base of the mast, remove and
stow all sails.
5. Batteries driving automatic bilge pumps should be fully charged
and float switches tested for good working order. Bilges should
be cleaned of oil and contaminants.
6. All through hull fittings equipped with valves as heads,
holding tank valves, and exhaust overflows should be placed in
closed position.
7. Where practical add to the mooring scope by lengthening the
painter. Be sure you maintain clearance with boats around you.
Position all extra fenders to fend off blows.
DOCKSIDE BOATS
1. Secure extra fender between boats and docks. Make use of
a fender board where vessel is tied up between pilings.
2. Double up all dock lines. Be sure spring lines are secured
in both directions and make certain cleats are well secured.
3.
In areas of floating docks, tie only to near top of the pilings,
otherwise the rising tide will "jack" the pile or otherwise
pull the boat under.
4. Owners with vessels tied alongside a fixed pier should make
certain that the gunwales will not get caught under the dock
as the tide rises. The boat may be warped away from the pier
using an anchor as an outhaul.
5. Disconnect all shore power lines going to the vessel before
the storm hits.
6.
Attempt to dock sailboats so that masts will not be "caught" on
one another when boats rock.
BOATS HAULED OUT
1. All day sailors and light weight boats which can make use
of trailers should be taken out of the water as soon as possible.
2. Sailboats dinghy type should be flooded with freshwater on
their trailers as a means to hold them down.
3. At home park boats close to building if possible.
4.
Boats stored using jack stands on soft ground, mud, sand, or
gravel should use plywood under each stand as a precaution
to prevent each stand from settlement. Make certain each jack
is snugged firmly against the boat hull and use safety chains
to "cross-lock" jacks.